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CCU Fan

Sunday, 29 April 2012 13:28 Jed
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The 964 hasn't been out much lately due to the lousy weather but when we've been out the cabin temperature fluctuates as the system pumps cold air into the cabin. I'd never heard the CCU fan running after the ignition was switched off so suspected a faulty fan. Removing the CCU was easier said than done even with the Blaupunkt removal tools but once released I discovered that it couldn't be extracted due to fouling of the indicator lever.  Removing the cowl covers and loosening the column switches allowed them to be rotated slightly to remove the CCU.

Plugging the fan into a 12V bench supply showed it to be working but after a few power cycles it stopped in a position from where it wouldn't start again.  Having heard of prices of $200 for a fan I sought a cheaper alternative. Maplin do a 40mm x 40mm x10mm 12V fan that has a low 29dB noise reading.  The original fan was dismantled and he air duct, fan and frame were bolted together using some long 3mm bolts and nuts. A couple of small washers were used as spacers between the frame and fan and the frame mounting hole nearest the CCU was was lengthened my about 2mm to allow the holes to line up. The final tweak was to fit a 100R resistor on the 12V feed to the fan to reduce the speed and noise. The original power connector was cut from the old fan and soldered to the new fan and heat shrink sleeving covered the joints.

All was refitted and so far it appears to be work but I haven't taken the car out for a real test. I really must take photos as I work on these things.

Edit: Photo of the fitted fan.

 

While I was in the garage I took the opportunity to replace the cooling fan shroud. After 22 years the rubber component was past its best - photo of the old one.

Last Updated on Sunday, 29 April 2012 18:46
 

TVR S3 Parts for Sale

Sunday, 01 January 2012 16:05 Jed
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Having a clear out of the garage so have these TVR S3 parts for sale.

Prices are plus postage that will be at cost or collect from just south of Norwich - UK.  Use the contact page to drop me a message.

 

Ford 2.9 ECU - £10

Distributor cap. Both male and female type. £5

Champion plug leads - scruffy box but unused. IIRC they are for the male dizzy.  £10

Piper cam shaft - fast road cam, unused. £40.

2.9 Cologne core plug set - £5

Speedo - 315 miles on the clock. Condition unknown.  £15

Offside rear swing arm for repair. Has the usual corrosion on the tube but suitable for a refurb.

Rear disc brakes - hubs, callipers, discs & pads. Ford fitment and came off a Griffith or Chimera.  Ideal for a rear disc conversion. £80

Mintex MDB1236 M1144 pads. Fit 260mm Ford callipers.  New boxed. £15

Set of front 260mm callipers - need  a rebuild. Complete with carrier.  £10

Ford 2.8 clutch friction plate for the S3 - £10

Alloy bellhousing for Cologne V6 (2.8 or 2.9) - £50

3 bolt 2.8 starter for alloy bell housing. £40

TVR S3 Oz 7 spoke wheels. Set of 4. Need powder coating really.  SOLD.

Granada / TVR S differential LSD - 7.5" with 100mm flanges.  SOLD

Head gaskets - ask as I seem to have loads of opened sets and should be able to make up a complete one or two.  SOLD

 

Last Updated on Saturday, 18 February 2012 17:24
 

Roll over

Sunday, 04 December 2011 21:37 Jed
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A few weeks ago I finally finished the nearside floors and part of the wheel arch. Today was another step forward when the body was mounted onto a spit made from a couple of engine stands.  Unfortunately the stands are about an inch too low and the body won't spin 360 degrees but a least I can get to the underside now.

 

 

Offside wheel arch

Tuesday, 16 August 2011 16:48 Jed
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Progress has been slow and I didn't realise how long ago it was that I last updated the site.  The offside wheel arch is the current focus of attention at the moment. The idea is to get the chassis structurally sound so that it can go onto a rotisserie and then finish off the body work.  As the rear spring mounts are attached to the chassis member that attaches to the side of the wheel arch and the floor, it was essential that the wheel arch and floor were solid.  A small repair to the chassis member was made one evening (so that I had a reference point to ensure the rear didn't sag) and then a section of the floor with the shock absorber bracket was cut away.

The inner wheel arch had seen many repairs and these repairs were failing.  Rather than buy a new inner wheel arch at around £170 I cut out the minimum I could and using cardboard templates I cut a sheet of 0.9mm steel to an approximate shape.  Plenty of hitting it with a hammer had it formed to shape and again the Cleco pins were a huge help in allowing the work piece to return to the same spot for making and forming. The new panel was then butt welded into place and finally a repair section for the floor to wheel arch was fabricated and welding into place.

Someone forgot to charge their camera battery so no photos at the moment.

 

 

 

Last Updated on Friday, 02 December 2011 20:40